Tocopilla to San Pedro De Atacama

Arrived in San Pedro after a long drive, coming through Calama and the valley De Luna. Awe-inspiring geology with our stop for the night a welcome sight. The place is writhing with first world tourists lugging their over packed suitcases across the hard, stony earth on little dolly wheels like stilettos on cobbles(sorry, could not resist). Found a tourist info office where no one spoke English, then went on to book a tour of the area. In true predictable tour company style we were offered accommodation and we knew that we were going to be separated from our money. Well we bargained and came up with what we thought was a fair deal and found ourselves in the Incahuasi just outside the main town centre.
As we unpacked, a woman came over to introduce herself called Sabine, who is German. She soon struck up a conversation with us with offers of chicken and beer. This definitely was going in the right direction. We were then joined by an Irish couple, Liam and Hannah with us all sharing opinions about travel and solving the world’s problems. The big thing here is the climate and altitude and we were getting a crash course in surviving the tours that we were about to follow. It was interesting to get the viewpoints of these international tourists who are very much aware of the human impact on the environment and more so on the sustainability of communities. Cohesion of people and tolerance of others seem to be top of their minds.

We booked a tour with the same company as other people resident at the hostel which included a Chilean couple and a Brazilian called Fernando. Our tour took us to an oasis village called Toconao with a walk through a river gorge. What a surprise to see the amount of water carving its way through this gorge with lush gardens of figs, quince and wild roses and with sheep grazing . The water, which was drinkable, incidentally is snow run-off from the Andes which made it more spectacular. The tour continued through the village to the town square where we saw the tower Companero de Neustra Inglesia and an  old church with wood work and balustrades sourced from cactus wood.
From here the tour continued onto the Pueblo of Socare where we stopped for lunch and had a taste of the local cuisine consisting of a soup (mainly veggies), main course quinoa rice, purple potatoes and meat, and for dessert oranges.
 After freshening up we continued with our tour which took us to Lugano Muiscanti at a height of 4200m above sea level.  This was the highlight of the tour for us. The lake was an emerald blue with a volcano as a backdrop. We were encouraged to walk to the second lake along a path. We spotted vicuña on the slopes nearby. The lagoon of Muscanti is a protected site and tours in this area are regulated. The vegetation in this area consists of grass tufts which are endemic. After our tour of the lagoons, we had a long drive to the Salar de Atacama (salt flats) which left the occupants of our tour bus bobbing from side to side with sleep. They say its the altitude. 
The geology of the Atacama is intriguing to say the least and the 50+volcanoes in the area have had a major impact in shaping this environment. I have seen vast landscapes - but this takes the cake. These salt flats run for miles and miles with the flamingos creating the highlight of the tour. Three species live on the Salar De Atacama - The Andean, Chilian, and The James. It is here that one can make sense of the Atacama and understand how it evolved, but its ginormity cannot be explained. The group disembarked and by now most had had 40 winks after the rocking motion of the bus. Eugene and I found this hilarious. Fernando, the Brazilian, constantly pulled snacks from his bag which he eagerly shared. We obliged, after all, who is going to give up honey salted nuts from Brazil, us being on a shoe-string budget. There was a talk about the geology with good sightings of the flamingos.
By now everyone in the group was very comfortable with each other and all having a good time which we did not want to stop. We drove back to the hostel with all agreeing  that it should not end. Beer is what we needed and our guide, Maria, obliged once again as we flooded a local café with thirsty tourists, buying beer, snacks and rolls. Off to the hostel we went to have an international party, all speaking different languages with party tricks which included opening beer bottles without opener - they thought this was totally cool. Good memories and friends were made here!

San Marco to Tocopilla (110km)

What a great location - setting sun and the sound of waves, of course, even with ear plugs. After a restless night the alarm of my watch comes as a rude awakening. Everything around me feels like its in  slow motion. Its a long time before I eventually fold up my tent and pack all my bags.  By 6o'clock I’m on the road. It’s still dark and once again I’m barreling down the road with my headlight illuminating the path ahead.  The coastline is ever changing. The weather is perfect and I cover the first 40km in good time. The terrain remains hilly. The variation in the landscape is so beautiful. 
It’s long after one of the towns I passed and have about 10km to go before I would enter the tunnel. I have no preconceived idea of what to expect. I made arrangements with Curt to meet me there as he would assist me to get through the tunnel. After this I have about 40km to go and would enter the town of Tocapilla. Curt arrives and I take the opportunity to rest and have a bite to eat. Curt, who had gone on ahead, could not find any place to stay in the town. He searched all possibilities but the city had nothing to offer. This is the end of my journey for the time being  and we decide to go on holiday… We pack up lock, stock and barrel - bicycle wheels come off and I remove part of the pannier carriage to fit everything into the little car we have. We are off.  Hello San Pedro De Atacama!

Iquique - San Marco

Iquique is way bigger and more bustling than Arica, with a greater pursuit of the more material. The cities geography is something else, with a massive dune in the centre and a mountain almost leaning over into the sea. If an earthquake should hit up north here, it will surely cause huge devastation as everything is situated under these huge sand mounds and rock faces. 

The next day starts rather late and by my account 8 o'clock is just that. By now I know what this means. Isabella only serves breakfast between 8 and 11 a.m. It’s after 8 already, there's not a murmur in the hostel and even the goggas are sleeping late except for Curt and I. I discovered that  Chileans who run businesses in the tourist service sector (a) don’t keep their promises and once they have taken your money they don’t owe you anything (b) most places we have encountered (hostels) only get going when the sun shines up there arses. The work ethic here can be a bit funky.
By the time I get going, the roads in the city are rather hectic with hordes of traffic. Certain roads are blocked off as the main arterial road becomes one mass directional road as most cars are heading towards the CBD. I simply follow the cars going in my direction anyway. I know I am heading south in the direction of the airport. After making an inquiry along the way, I realise that I am going in the right direction. The road out of the city is quite hilly and before long I leave the city limits behind and enjoy the partial tranquility. In some parts the road is in quite bad condition and quite narrow, in other parts undulating as it hugs the coastline. There are also many little beaches along this stretch and it looks like it could be seriously hectic in summer or during the holiday season. The traffic consists mainly of trucks, buses and cars heading to the airport.  After the 40km mark the airport appears and is quite small as it services only internal fights. 

Its not long hereafter before the landscape changes dramatically as the Atacama grips the surrounding area. The weather is cool as the breeze blows from the sea. There are huge mining industries along this coast and trucking activity is busily transporting heavy material. Curt eventually found the car he hired, got a good deal and raced to meet up with me. We have a bite to eat and he is planning to go ahead and investigate some coastal national park. We make arrangements to meet up later during the day. At Peurto Partillos, a small mining port/ harbour is in full operation with massive boats being loaded with some kind of ore.
 

The road continues in its undulating way and ever so often a small fishing village pops up. Some are empty while others are in full swing. Apart from fishing there is also the harvesting of kelp. 

It’s long after and Curt catches up with me and we make San Marco the place we will sleep for the night. The little village has nothing to offer so we head further down the cost and find the perfect spot to pitch our tents.

Huara to Iquique (73.2 km)

Huara can only be described as that which does not have change for a 100 000 peso note. Our stay in the hostel in Haura was comfortable and we had a good night’s sleep. By 8 o'clock the next morning, I’m on the road again. The first 26km is perfect weather and I cover the distance in no time. I turnoff to Iquique on the R16 and visit the old nitrate town of Humberstone . 

Humberstone

This is an amazing place, a step back into the past, with the whole town still perfectly preserved. Once upon a time it was a prosperous town at the peak of nitrate mining, exporting mainly to Europe. The buildings are still well preserved with schools, churches, fire station, electricity station, market place, houses and a magnificent pool. I spend about an hour taking photographs and walking through the entire town.

I leave the town of Humberstone  and my  journey to Iquique  continues. In places, the road is not in good condition and is undulating and narrow. The closer I get to the coast the wind starts to pick up and gusts in certain places. It is not an easy ride. The traffic is laden with buses and trucks heading into the city of Iquique .

Just before the town, the road splits up and I continue heading for the main part of the town. The first part is made up of heavy industry, mainly mining, with its own  town  As I head further on, about 20km or so, down the long spiraling hill is the main part of this city. There is a huge sand dune situated on one  part of town and the city is squeezed between mountains, dunes and sea. When I arrive in town Curt has completed his business and found us accommodation. We are staying at the hostel La Casona 1920 in the old part of the city. The owner Isabella speaks good English and the hostel has all the mode cons we require.

Cuya to Huara

I am setting up my tent minding my own business and thinking of having a good sleep. The police station is not too far from where the trucks have to register. so you can imagine the noise. A surprising visitor comes knocking, Curt. He has hired a vehicle for the 2 days and has driven all the way from Iquique to see me in Cuya. After reminiscing about all the day's activity we settle in, he in his tent and I in mine. Clever me, I've brought along earplugs, what a blessing. Eish, just when you think you covered all your angles, what should come buzzing in - the mozzies and did they have a field day. 
By 5a.m. the next morning, Curt and I are up and by 6a.m. I am on the road with flashing lights and head lamp. The valley is quiet, not a breeze, my beam of light pierces through sea of darkness as I cycle. The valley floor is flat and after 20km I cross over at Peunta Chiza. Yesterday was a day I would like to clear out of my mind and a good night's rest did just the trick. Now the dreaded Alto Chiza is about to rip me back to reality and with kindness introduces itself to me again. Two days in a row! There must something here I think but with strength of mind I bite the bullet. The climb is only 18km long, the weather is not too bad, the first part of the climb is shrouded in mist.

I continue hoping it will stay like this for some time but it does not last and up ahead the mist is being burned away in front of me and before long the scorching sun is blazing down on me. The sun saps away all my strength and energy. The climb stretches on forever and the top eludes at every turn and the on the final bend the hill is eventually conquered. On the top of this pass is a truck stop with a single cafe. What a godsend. I buy something cold, have lunch and recover.

Once on top of the pass  you stay on the Antiplano. the terrain is undulating and the  wind, my dreaded friend, is there to put a stop to all my  fun. I have now come to understand the dramatic climatic conditions that take place on the Antiplano. The wind has fun with me in the afternoons, I  discovered haha! From here the Puenta Tana (just a bloody dry river bed crossing) comes and with all speed you head down the valley and up the other side with much cursing. My first sighting of the Geoglifos Tiliviche. 

Geoglifos (rock art) Tiliviche

It goes by too quickly. Back down the valley one more time to cross the river bed of Tiliviche and another long climb out.

The crossing to Pisagua is a wonderful time to take a breather. From this point I have another 47km to go to Huara. Its not all plain sailing for me as my funny friend wind has yet to deal me a fair hand. I have to struggle to keep the bike upright and the battle continues all the way to the end ... I'm finished at this point. Distance covered:125km  Time: 8h43

Arica to Cuya

Its Saturday morning and both Curt and I get out of bed early. Curt will be leaving for Iquique to see if he can sort out some transport for himself. I, on the other hand, will be starting my cycling journey. Our agreement with the hostel, the Surf House, is for breakfast to be available before we leave. In the morning it is another story. According to the niño, breakfast will only be served at 8am. I'm looking forward to this meal as I need the sustenance. This leaves me a bit peeved.

After saying goodbye to Curt I head out of the city for the Pan-American highway. The traffic is light and the weather perfect and just as I´m about to settle into my stride the first curve ball is thrown at me - a puncture! I have to take off my panniers to fix the puncture - a slight schlep. The road begins to incline and before long I'm climbing the Pampa Chaca. This pass is 8km long. The valley, Comarones, takes me back down to the Altiplano a 21km drop and immediately I head for the Alto Camarones. The mist has burned off and the scorching sun is about to turn nasty. I have never encountered such long passes in all my cycling career. The heat saps away your energy. The panniers on my bike feel twice as heavy. I´m sweating bullets and literally have to stop ever so often just to give me some relief. The pass is 23km long and it takes me three hours to get to the top. From the top back into the valley, the Pampa de Chiza Now the wind is giving me problems as well and just at the bottom of the valley, Cuya awaits me. I stop at the first cafe to have a coke. I enquire from the cafe owner where I can pitch my tent. He takes me to the local police station. The guys are very kind and they allow me to pitch my tent on there grounds.

Arica to Putre

5 h30 we were out of bed and off to Putre. We caught a taxi at 6h30 as the bus to Putre was leaving at 7o´clock. The bus station, La Paloma, was quite far from the city centre which was about ten minutes away by taxi.
The bus departed promptly at 7 o´clock. The journey took us through some of the barios of Arica onto the Pan American highway, North to Tacna and onto the R11 to Putre. Our Journey would take us onto the Antiplano. Putre is about 3500m high and to Curt this is just another number and oh! he has never experienced altitude before.

Beam me up Scotty! This is Mars!! Talk about space walking this is truly a lunar landscape of note. We arrived after a 3 hour trip to a scene almost synonymous with Arabian nights. Putre is definitely an oasis in this barren landscape, and everything is at a slow, slow pace. The altitude really impacts, which was a great excuse for me. Of course mechano man was in his element; "acclimatising" is the excuse. Ja, right. 
Met a guy at the hostel where we are staying, a pretty cool dude called Carlos Athens (must be a Spanish-Greek) who thought Eugenio needed his head read after hearing what we plan on doing. Now I am really worried and clutching my return ticket like there is no tomorrow, seeing that a desert hardened Chilean thinks it is a bad idea. Ok guys, so it is going to be really lonely from here on out as we leave tomorrow morning early into the desert. Curt will be going on to Iquique to find a car and then backtracking. 
So dudes out there we are relying on you to keep us company....so comment please and thanks to those who are already contributing....

Arrival in Santiago De Chile

Phew, what a long trip and we are still not at our destination. We have a 5 hour lay over before we catch flight to Arica in northern Chile. So far everything is running smoothly including Eugenio's bike(I would like to give it a name) which is still in one piece. People are really pleasant and co-operative even though there is a language problem at times. No cars at hire companies because of the mine rescue, hopefully we will strike it lucky in Arica. Two beers in Buenos Aires cost nearly R100 and tasted terrible probably because of the price. Santiago seems more reasonable though. Flying in over Andes was breathtaking to say the least as I have never seen a mountain so close while flying. I'm getting worried for Eugene's sake, but mechanoman says "no worries, my pants have already chafed through just thinking about it". Well here is hoping we get some sleep on the next flight!!!!

Chile Itinenary

Chilean Flag

Our flights to Chile have been secured and the date of departure is drawing closer. We cannot be prepared enough and in the  back of my mind there is a sense of trepidation. 

Our journey  takes us from Cape Town via Buenos Aires to Santiago, Chile. From Santiago we head North to the port City of Arica which is situated very close to the Peruvian border. Arica also services landlocked Bolivia and serves as a business hub for the import and export of goods bound for the Bolivian markets.

We plan to stay here for two days and will stock up on essential goods and water for four days. Apart from that  we head for the Altiplano and visit the  town of Putre and some of the national parks in the area. Parinacota, further north, is one of many volcanoes we will encounter.

From here I head for the town of Iquique via Haura and Humberstone. My route then heads along the coast to Tocopila and onto the Altiplano to Calama via Chuquicamata. From here its off to the oasis town of  San Pedro de Atacama where I will visit the Salar de Atacama, then onto Antofogasta Copiapo, La Serena and finally finishing in Valparaiso and Santiago. In total I will be cycling roughly 2000km.

Planning the Atacama trip

Just a week or two to go and Curt and I are on our way. We have spent months and months poring over maps and reading blogs and web sites about Chile and travels through the Atacama Desert. Big question still being  asked ,why? I think Sandy is quite right, it's the austerity, the beauty and the open space. It feels like the end of the earth. That's what draws me or is it growing up on the "Kaapse Vlakte" and playing in the sand, I just have a bigger sand pit to play in. So, the why is  always easy to explain.

All previous cycle tours were solo excursions. This would be the first time I have a partner coming along with me on my arduous journey. Two years ago Curt heard of my plans to cycle through Chile starting in the North and ending in Santiago. There in there he decided he would like to accompany me on this journey. He put it down to a mid life crisis.....Oh! boy I thought. "Curt can you cycle? " was my first question ....."no."  " So how do you plan to do this or how are you going to convince me to take you along?" He had it all figured out already. " I think you need someone to record your journey and I am just the person you are looking for. I think more people have to be aware of this, especially kids. They do not have good role models. You are just the person to do this". That said, it's been a special partnership. He has convinced the Amy Biehl Foundation to come on board and we are very glad to be associated with them. We plan to raise funds for the foundation.