Sunday, November 14, 2010

Papudo to Valparaiso (90km)

Curt: It is our final day on the road! The past 4 weeks have seen us come through some pretty daunting terrain. We have survived. To all the doubters, don’t feel bad, I had my doubts too, but not for Eugene’s ability. This man just doesn't give up. I reckon he is good for another thousand kms at least. Well, as usual, breakfast is not ready at 8:30 so we promptly help ourselves to hot water and at 9am we leave - what’s new? I had anticipated a pleasant coastal ride and a shorter distance. Next town along the coast is Zapellar which is very trendy and a playground for the rich, with private roads and beaches - wow! As I drive further along the rural Chile fades into the distance. I approach Con Con and see joggers, skateboarders, cyclist and weekenders strutting their stuff on their Harleys and 4x4 vehicles. No holding back here, this is serious materialism.
Well, my concern is for Eugene who has to wade through all of this, and it becomes more and more difficult the closer we get to Valparaiso. I cannot find the hostel we were aiming for and get stuck in traffic. What is this, I say to myself - I have hardly moved and I know Eugene is fast catching up as I am not going much faster than he is. I spot him on the other side of the road and manage to flag him down. We are both dumbstruck and hit a bit of an anticlimax. We try another hostel across the city and I see poor Eugene’s (now chicken legs) whizzing round and round in my rear-view mirror.
lifts of valparaiso
We eventually find the historic old town area of Alegre y Conception and book into the first hostel. At last we can catch our breath. This side of town looks pretty suspect but we figure it is better than sleeping by the roadside. After collecting our thoughts and thinking more rationally we come to realize that we have found a gem within the city.
This area is where the old money was created and spent in 1920’s, ornate buildings clinging to the side of the mountain. Some walls are covered in graffiti and others crying out for paint. I don’t know what to make of this - a hodgepodge, mix and match, but what is clear is that it’s got soul. Photos here are a pleasure with musicians and artists all throwing their talent together. The vibrancy in the town square draws one in. The biggest factor for me is that even in this decaying part of town, one did not feel unsafe-just FUNKY! We decide to spend another night and that speaks for itself.

1 comment:

  1. Fantastic photo's!!

    Well not long now and you'll be cycling the dreaded Cape Town South Easter........but i suppose after what you've just accomplished, that won't be a big deal at all.
    Enjoy the rest of your stay and have a good trip home. See you soon.

    Love Arlette

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